Aftermarket Foglight Installs

From: Nate (xanex25@ibm.net)
Although the information here is specific to the installation of Pilot PL-1010's on a 1995 Integra GS-R, I assume that it will work for any projector like driving lamp on a third generation Integra. I got the lights through Impact Parts of New York. The service was thoroughly mediocre. I had to send them back because they sent me amber instead of clear lights. Although they cheerfully refilled my order, it took over two weeks for them to ship after they received them. So, after I finally got the right lights I had to figure out 1) how to mount them and 2) how to wire them the way I wanted. After doing my research I decided that the best thing to do would be dive under the hood and figure it out for myself.

What you will need:

Tools:
• 10mm or 7/16 socket wrench
• 10mm or 7/16 open ended wrench
• Medium Phillips head screw driver
• Small Phillips head screw driver
• Power drill
• Wire cutters
• Needle nosed pliers
• Ratcheted pliers
• Utility knife
• Lighter

Materials:
• 4 feet of 14 ga. copper stranded wire
• 1 - Roll two sided tape
• 2 - ring-style terminal connectors (crimp on) sized to fit 16-14 ga. Wire
• A dozen No. 8-32 x 1 in. steel screws with nuts
• 1 - Tap splice
• One dozen 1/4 in. diameter plastic wire clamps
• Two dozen zip ties
• Electrical tape
• Heat shrink tubing

Before you begin:
Disconnect the negative (-) terminal of your battery. If you do not you will get a really nasty shock. Also, make sure that you have your radio code on hand -- you will need it to get the radio working when you are finished. Finally, if you don't understand the directions, DO NOT attempt to do the installation yourself. You could mess up your car, your lights, or yourself. Take it to someone who knows what they are doing. This is in NO WAY meant to be instructions on how to install driving lamps and is offered purely as a goodwill effort to those who would like suggestions. The author holds NO RESPONSIBILITY for your actions.

Running the wires:
Start under the car. Lay the wiring harness across the underside of the air dam and feed the wires, relay and fuse up into the engine bay along the drivers side near the windshield washer fluid reservoir (you may have to remove the corner turn signal lens in order to do this). Make sure the connectors for the light will reach the lights where you have chosen to mount them. Attach the Relay to the car by removing the screw which holds the washer fluid reservoir. Reattach the screw, placing the relay unit on top of the reservoir. Attach the ground wire to the car's main ground (in the front of the engine bay just to the right of the hood release). There should be four wires running from the relay. Two should be for the main circuit: the 12v power lead (red) and the ground wire (black). There should also be two wires running to the switch: 12v power lead (red) and the ACC (white). The lead should also have a ground wire (black) running from it. Throw away the switch and the ground running from it. Clip the 12v power lead that runs to the switch near the relay -- you will not need this. Locate to red and black wire with silver stripes in the bundle of wires running near the washer fluid reservoir. (N.B. Before you begin it would be best to check the colour of this wire by removing your corner lens and examining the colour of the wires to make sure that the parking lamp light is powered by the red and black wire with silver stripes. If it is powered by another colour wire, note the colour of the wire and substitute it for the colours I have given above.) Cut the ACC (white) wire so that it is about 18 inches long and strip the plastic coating off of the last 1/4 inch. Using the tap splice, take the red and black wire with silver stripes and splice it to the ACC (white) wire. Cover this connection with electrical tape. Next, using the length of 14 ga. wire that you have bought, attach one ring terminal adapter to one end. Attach this to the positive (+) terminal of your battery. Run the wire along the back of the engine bay securing it with zip ties as needed. Make sure to keep the wire tied down and away from moving parts within the engine. Route to wire along until you have enough length to meet with the 12v power lead from the relay. Cut the wire and attach the other ring terminal connector to this end too. Connect to ring from this wire to the ring connector on the 12v power lead using one of the No. 8 screws. Cover the connection with electrical tape. The lights are now fully wired and ready to go.

Mounting the lights:
Apply the two-sided tape to the bottom of each mounting bracket. Jack the car up high enough so that you will be able to lay underneath it. Locate the position that you want to mount your lights. I suggest mounting on the outer corners in the upright position (with the mounting bracket under the lamp housing) because it is easier to access with the drill and your hand when mounting. Using the power drill, drill a hole through the mounting platform using the bracket as a guide. Repeat for the other side. From the front of the car, align the headlights. Remove the second side of the two sided tape and bolt the lights on. Make sure you get your alignment right before you press the lights down because it will be a real pain to get them off once the tape has adhered. Now that the lights are mounted screw holes in the under side of the lower most part of the air dam -- about one every two inches. Using the wire clips and screws, attach the wiring harness to the inside of the air dam. Here it will be out of sight and should not be affected too much by the elements. Lastly, slip the heat shrink over the wires and connect them. Using the lighter shrink the tubing.

Now that the project is done you should have lights that come on with your parking lights (the first click) and stay on with your headlights. It took me 2-3 hours including setup and cleanup. One last reminder, I am not an expert and I am only offering this information to tell you how I wired my lamps -- what you do with that information is up to you. I suggest you investigate how the lights work before you attempt to install them yourself. Good luck.

From: Franklin Roh (froh@u.washington.edu)
This wiring tip is for those of us who are too frugal and/or too worried about theft to get PIAAs or CATZ and have opted for cheaper fog lights (Blazer, etc). The performance of Blazers are adequate if not good, but its wiring leaves much to be desired. The wires are tiny 18 gauge and the switch looks like it came from a '80s surplus bin at Pontiac; no-go in my 90 Integra! For the total stock look, here's what to do.

Things to get:

• -stock foglight switch - Can be had for free at junkyards; dealers charge ~$50 for this switch (price of the Blazers!). This switch will go into the empty switch slot in RS and LS. I don't know about GS, but I suspect you'll have to relocate one of the switches. Emergency switch perhaps.
• -accessory relay - any parts shop. less than $5.
• -wires (I used 12guage. Overkill, I know), spade connectors, shrink tube, crimper, and basic tools any self-respecting shade-tree Integra mechanic should have!

• -SOLID RED and RED/BLACK STRIPE for the bulb that lights the foglight symbol.
• -RED/YELLOW STRIPE and RED/BLUE STRIPE for power to relay and on light
• -SOLID BLACK for ground

1. RED/YELLOW STRIPE and RED/BLACK STRIPE wires must be joined to each other and spliced into the yellow wire on the Emergency light switch. This serves two purposes: light will not turn on when engine is off and no extra load on the power source. You don't drive with your emergency lights blinking do you? :)
2. RED wire should be spliced into the same colored wire on the rear window defogger switch. The power for this bulb is parallel so no worry about extra load.
3. RED/BLUE STRIPE wire is the power wire that will go to the relay.
4. BLACK wire is the ground.

From: Scott (cnkhv@ea.oac.uci.edu)
For those who own a 92-93 Integra BUMPER (I THINK this will not work on any other Hondas, unless using Catz MSX), the signal lights are one of the largest ones Honda makes. Most people clear them out buy cutting the front off, and yanking the orange part out. Well, if you go to your local shop and buy the smallest set of fog lights you can, you can stuff them inside where the lens used to be, silicone the front back to the housing, running the wires out the back where the light socket used to be and then getting some rubber or plastic and silicone that over the open socket hole that is there. Once this is done, wire it up following the fog light instructions. When you're done with this, you have a great looking set of lights on the front end. IMPORTANT!! Because you stuff them inside, the fog lights will NOT illuminate the road like they are supposed to. The lens of the bumper signal will distort the light and will make them appear purple/pink/blue (if you're using clear fogs). If you have any other questions, email me.