Installing brake pads is easier than you think. Having the service manual
makes it even easier. You should follow the service manual, but the following
are just some tips that I think you will find useful.
Instead of buying those special "anti-squeal" compounds in those 4-packs, I
instead opted for synthetic grease in the large tube. It is about a dollar more
expensive than the 4-pack, but then you will get a bunch more grease. Apply a
decent amount between the back of the brake pad and the backing plate that attaches to
it. When grease in between here evaporates, backing plate to brake pad backing contact occurs and
squealing can result. The synthetic grease can withstand the high temperatures
and won't evaporate.
The rear brake lines should be routed behind the shocks rather
than along the original path. The stock path forces the lines to bend too much
like in the above picture. Notice that in the picture above, I did not do this
and so the lines are bent a little more than I like it. I have since changed
I will have to re-route the line the next time I bleed the brakes.
This is because the bolt is not bent like the stock ones are. The front lines
follows the original path for a little bit, but it's placement is very obvious
and does not cause any extreme bends.
Remember that the clip holding the brake lines to its mount is removed by
pulling it towards you. Use pliers to easily pull it out.
One liter of brake fluid is plenty when bleeding the
brakes. Since the 5.1 is a very
expensive brake fluid, you should "pre-bleed" the old fluid by using some cheap
DOT3 fluid. This way, you can make sure that all the old contaminated brake
fluid is completely gone. You really only need to "pre-bleed" if you really neglected the brake fluid and it's a really dark color.
When installing the new rear brake pads, you'll notice that the new
pads are thicker than the old ones. You may not have enough room to
squeeze the new pads in there because the calipers are not wide enough. You will
have to turn the cylinder clockwise to make it go down and therefore allow more
room for the new pads to go in. Do not try to press the rear cylinder in with
The fronts are a little more straight-forward. Just use a 5 inch C-clamp to
push in the piston. Thanks to Shawn Church for this tip.
Remember to notice which end the wear indicators should go.
Copyright 2002, Temple of VTEC