3/16" hex wrench
12mm deep socket
Ratchet to work with above socket
You will first need to loosen the rear wheel lugnuts, jack the rear of the car, and support it with jackstands. Then, remove the rear wheels.
Bolt Locations (Notice the stock rear progressive rate springs)
- Use the 14mm wrench to loosen the nut connecting the swaybar to the endlink. You may need to use the hex wrench to hold the bolt stud in place while loosening the nut.
- Rotate the endlink away from the swaybar. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the other side.
- Use the 12mm socket and ratchet to remove the upper and lower bolts from the swaybar bushing brakets on both bushings. You will need to hold the swaybar in place, as it will fall down once all the bolts are removed.
- Remove the rear swaybar from the vehicle, noting which side is left and right - the new bar will need to be installed in the same direction.
- Apply some high-quality, water-resistant grease to the inside of the new 22mm bushings.
Wrong bushing, OEM bracket vs. Energy bushing & bracket
- Slip the supplied 22mm rubber bushings onto the new swaybar in approximately the correct locations (you can slide them into position in a bit), which is very near the bends to either side of the straight center portion.
- Move the new swaybar into position on the car, trying to get the bar ends lined up relatively close to the endlink studs. Slide the bushings left or right to line up with the bushing bracket locations, which should be a clean spot surrounded by black road grime (unless your car is extremely new).
- While holding the swaybar in place, slip one bushing bracket over the bushing, making sure to center the bushing within the bracket. Note: If not using Energy bushings and re-installing the factory brackets, each bracket has an "L" (driver's side) or "R" (passenger side) on it, so make sure to install them on the correct side, even though they appear to be physically the same.
- Still holding the bar in place, hand thread a lower bracket bolt reasonably far into the bolt hole, followed by the upper bolt. Repeat this process for the other bracket.
- You should be able to let go of the swaybar now. Rotate the endlinks so the studs go through the bar bolt holes. You should be able to rotate the swaybar up or down to align the bolt holes with the stud. You may need to slightly shift the bar in or out if you didn't center it correctly.
- Tighten the endlink nuts. You may need to use the hex wrench to hold the stud while tightening the nut. The torque spec is 29 ft./lbs. Do this for both sides of the bar.
- Tighten the upper and lower bolts for the bushing brackets. The torque spec is 16 ft./lbs.
- Reinstall the wheels, lower the car, and torque the lugnuts to 80 ft./lbs.
- Take the car for a drive and listen for any abnormal sounds.
Copyright 2002, Temple of VTEC