From: Jeffrey Ho-See
Weyland showed me how to modify a cap. It's pretty simple.
You will need a tower part.
They're made by MSD I believe.
- Drill a hole just big enough for the tower screw to go through.
Don't drill too big! This screw also serves as the conductor
between the coil wire mount tip and the cap. A big hole will hold the screw too loosely.
- You drill the hole in the cap where the OEM coil pickup location is.
(See the above diagram)
- Trim/Grind off the lower base of the coil tower.
Then super glue it on to the cap.
- Push the conducting screw through the cap/tower combo... then
tighten the assembly together with the spark plug-type end
bolt/coil wire mount tip.
- Apply silicone to cover the conducting screw inside the cap (VERY IMPORTANT!)
Be generous! Also apply silicone around the tower/cap junction outside.
- I let it dry a bit before installation... don't want the silicone inside
gumming up your rotor eh?
If you're wondering how to run the wires from inside the cap to outside the cap,
I did the following:
Find where the OEM wires enter the distributor. They come through a special
rubber grommet built into the housing. I notched the cap above this area allowing
enough room for my wires to come through. Put some heat shrink tube around it
for protection, hook up your wires, apply some silicone, and screw
the cap back on to the housing. I did this with the distributor off the head
The rotor may be a pain to remove. If you do it on the car, you'll need
to rotate the engine to do so. I do not advise using the starter
to do this (you will break something!) Remember your valve adjustment
days? Get the socket out and put the car in neutral. Turn turn!
Removing the spark plugs will relieve compression... but for the buff
guys... you don't need to.
Back to the rotor, mine was torqued in real good. I wound up stripping it a bit.
So I removed the distributor off the head... then got my hammer and impact tool from Sears
to break the screw loose. Weyland removed it easily... but every car's different.
My experience is that the factory assemblers are kind of torque crazy (less
notices of loose parts problems to the factory) Toyota factory radios
are notorious for this in the car stereo circles. Anyhow, my friend
also had problems removing his rotor. Remember the crank pulley bolt?
I rest my case.
I had problems with my setup during starting. I think it may have something
to do with electrical noise coming from the spark plug wires.
Previously I had my Hi6 tap in wires run close by to the plug wires.
My car had a terrible time starting. Since I rerouted the Hi6 tap in wires,
the car starts better now.
The Hi6 goes inline between the factory wiring and the OEM coil.
The Hi6 serves as a simple amplifier. It reads the factory
coil wires, then sends its own amplified version back out to the coil.
Take the (+) OEM coil wires and hook this to red on Hi6
Take the (-) OEM coil wires and hook this to white on Hi6
Take the orange wire and hook this to your (+) on coil (OEM/PS92 doesn't matter)
Take the black wire and hook this to your (-) on coil (coil type doesn't matter)