INSTALLATION

Installing brake pads is easier than you think. Having the service manual makes it even easier. You should follow the service manual, but the following are just some tips that I think you will find useful.

Instead of buying those special "anti-squeal" compounds in those 4-packs, I instead opted for synthetic grease in the large tube. It is about a dollar more expensive than the 4-pack, but then you will get a bunch more grease. Apply a decent amount between the back of the brake pad and the backing plate that attaches to it. When grease in between here evaporates, backing plate to brake pad backing contact occurs and squealing can result. The synthetic grease can withstand the high temperatures and won't evaporate.

The rear brake lines should be routed behind the shocks rather than along the original path. The stock path forces the lines to bend too much like in the above picture. Notice that in the picture above, I did not do this and so the lines are bent a little more than I like it. I have since changed this.

I will have to re-route the line the next time I bleed the brakes. This is because the bolt is not bent like the stock ones are. The front lines follows the original path for a little bit, but it's placement is very obvious and does not cause any extreme bends.

Remember that the clip holding the brake lines to its mount is removed by pulling it towards you. Use pliers to easily pull it out.

One liter of brake fluid is plenty when bleeding the brakes. Since the 5.1 is a very expensive brake fluid, you should "pre-bleed" the old fluid by using some cheap DOT3 fluid. This way, you can make sure that all the old contaminated brake fluid is completely gone. You really only need to "pre-bleed" if you really neglected the brake fluid and it's a really dark color.

When installing the new rear brake pads, you'll notice that the new pads are thicker than the old ones. You may not have enough room to squeeze the new pads in there because the calipers are not wide enough. You will have to turn the cylinder clockwise to make it go down and therefore allow more room for the new pads to go in. Do not try to press the rear cylinder in with a clamp.

The fronts are a little more straight-forward. Just use a 5 inch C-clamp to push in the piston. Thanks to Shawn Church for this tip.

Remember to notice which end the wear indicators should go.

Copyright 2002, Temple of VTEC