by J. Ho-See
Last Updated: 07/08/98
I'm going to skip a lot of instructions and inform you of only the major steps of the
Minimal Tool List
- Portable Drill with assorted bits (drill, Phillips screw)
- Wire Crimper (Klein)
- Wire Stripper
- Assorted screwdrivers
- 19 mm ratchet, extension
- 12 mm wrench, ratchet
- 8 mm wrench, ratchet with extension
- Impact Tool (for removal of stuck bolts/screws)
- Heat Gun
Minimal Materials List
- Caulking material (do not use material that has acid as it may corrode electrical
components. Hint : if it smells vinegary/acidic do not use)
- Flex/Wire Loom
- Assorted terminals (spade, ring, butt connectors)
- Heat Shrink Tubing
- Assorted sizes of Zip Ties
- Secure car, turn wheels to access crank pulley bolt
- Remove plug wires off cap (note firing ordering if you're not sure)
- Remove cap, look for rotor screw access port
- Turn engine over until screw is accessible, remove (you may want to remove this off the
head to remove if it's stubborn, do not strip this! It's a special non magnetic screw, DO
NOT LOSE! Get ready to catch it when loosened)
- Remove rotor, remove inner cover (see diagram)
What are we trying to do with a Hi6? We want to amplify the current to the coil (be it the
OEM one or an aftermarket unit) See the wiring diagram. The coil is simply connected by
two wires. The wiring diagram indicates colors that MAY NOT MATCH your car. So adjust your
So the Hi6 reads the two coil wires, and send it's own current back to the coil via two
other wires. This is very much like adding a car stereo amplifier.
Many speed shops tend to simply cut off the factory terminals during installation of
the unit. I find this to be unacceptable (especially if you want to reverse the
installation back to stock)
The negative wire off the coil can be removed entirely. I would do this and save it.
Use a INSULATED female spade connector, bend it, and wire it up between the ICM and the
Hi6 white wire.
The positive wire cannot be removed (see wiring diagram) because it connects to the ICM
as well as the (+) of the coil and originates external to the distributor.
You have two choices.
1) Use a female and male spade connector and wire up the red Hi6 wire while joining the
positive OEM wire at the ICM. In other words, cut two pieces of wire. Twist two ends
together and use an insulated female spade connector. Attach this to the ICM male
location. Use one of the wires to attach your routed red Hi6 wire. The other crimp on a
male spade connector and plug into the positive wire you pulled off the ICM. Cover up the
exposed unused OEM wire going to the OEM coil.
2) Tap into the wire outside of the housing in the engine bay. Doing this, you avoid
with jimmy-rigging option #1. See real picture.
Additional Tips : Make sure you use the correct procedure for engine selection
(blue wire) You need to find a TRUE ignition switched +12V source (+12V even during
cranking of the engine)
This is also important for TR units with regards to timing retard knob installation
(see my previous notes)
Readjust your timing and do not forget the shorting jumper wire.
For all you who have read all the Hi6 information on the web page and still fail to get
the unit working properly it's time to bring it to an expert. A car stereo shop should be
able to handle the installation of the Hi6 better than your typical mechanic. They have a
better understanding of what the unit does and how to work with wiring. And they will have
all the tools necessary. Now you just have to wonder if they know how to remove a
Preaching ON : The ignition circuit in your car is a VERY important one. Poor
electrical work can result in engine detonation. If you find yourself totally clueless
about basic electrical theory and do not know how to make reliable crimped connections DO
NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL A Hi6 UNIT!